Places

Puerto Vallarta

View of Banderas Bay looking north from old Puerto Vallarta

Looking out over El Centro de Puerto Vallarta

My mother, my sister Ann, her husband Brian and their daughters Emily and Hannah came to visit me in Banderas Bay after Christmas. We took a couple of days to sail to Punta de Mita and La Cruz. After we returned to Paradise Village Marina, where the boat was staying, we took some land trips. One was to the old, charming section of Puerto Vallarta. We had a lovely lunch at El Campanario near the church and then walked across the river to visit my friend Denise Hitzman and her family. They were staying in a gorgeous apartment overlooking the bay and we had a brief but wonderful gathering of the two families.

Places

Arroyos Verdes

Cruisers having fun on Christmas Day at Arroyos Verdes

Musicians from 3 different bands jamming, mostly gypsy jazz

Lupe, owner of Arroyos Verdes being an amazing hostess

Aldabra crew member Dax enjoying the music

On Christmas Day many cruisers in Banderas Bay accepted the invitation of Lupe Dipp to spend the day at her resort near Bucerias. Arroyos Verdes has a variety of units to rent on grounds covered by beautiful vegetation and artwork. We sat around the pool, listened to gypsy jazz music, ate a delicious meal and generally celebrated.

Places

San Sebastian del Oeste

Tom Carr and his wife Annie are visiting from Santa Cruz, California and they have a rental car. So they generously agreed to drive to San Sebastian del Oeste with Don and Anne (who are here from Santa Cruz on their boat Redwood Coast II) and me. San Sebastian is about a two-hour drive into the mountains east of La Cruz. As soon as you leave the outskirts of Puerto Vallarta, you enter lush green countryside. San Sebastian is a traditional town. It was founded as a mining town during the early Spanish colonial period. On the day we visited, it was very quiet. One family was having a large birthday party for their three-year old daughter, which may have been why the streets were almost empty. We enjoyed walking around looking at the buildings and imagining how peaceful it would be to stay for a bit. We had a nice lunch in a hotel in the town center. We bought wonderful pastries from a panaderia and some tequila produced locally.

The town center in San Sebastian

Building facing the town center in San Sebastian

Children playing ball near the town center

Tom and Annie and Don and Anne

Scenes from around town

Scenes from around town

San Sebastian has a mining history. Assuming this statue is a tribute to miners

Scenes from around town

Scenes from around town

Scenes from around town

Enjoying a quiet traditional Mexican lunch

Our little group standing in the town center

Events

Banderas Bay Blast

Boats at the starting line of the Banderas Bay Blast. That’s Jane and Jerry on Aeolian in the foreground.

Sailing close hauled in 19 knots during the Banderas Bay Blast.

On December 11, 12 and 13 we participated in the Banderas Bay Blast. It’a a three-day regatta that raises money for school supplies for children in the area. During the first day, we raced on a triangular course near where we are staying in La Cruz. The crew was Dax, who has been crew since Mazatlan, and Alan and Jan from Kemo Sabe. The winds were light. We were three minutes late to the start. And we never made it to the second mark of the course. When the wind hit zero knots, we retired from the race. Only five boats finished that day but we had lots of fun back in the marina with the other racers.

The second day, we were joined by Jeff and Jules from El Gato, along with our Day One crew. The winds were light at first but picked up to 19 knots as we raced close-hauled from La Cruz to Punta de Mita. We picked the wrong strategy for getting to the finish line and finished last among the boats that actually kept sailing. But we had a fun day and the dinner that night was fun in Punta de Mita.

The next day, after watching little school children do some traditional dancing, we headed off to the finish in Nueva Vallarta. This was mostly a downwind leg and Dax and I did it ourselves, with the help of a spinnaker borrowed from Kemo Sabe. We actually left before our official start time and were near the finish line when the fast boats blasted past us to finish. It was fun to have a front-row seat for the action. That night we stayed in Paradise Village Marina and had dinner at the Vallarta Yacht Club as the last gathering of the regatta. The next day we returned to La Cruz to start getting some work done on the boat.  Thank you Jules for these pictures. More coming soon from Jan.

Places

Yelapa

The main tourist attraction in this village is this beach

The main tourist attraction in this village is this beach

Looking from the village onto the beach

Looking from the village onto the beach

The main form of transportation in Yelapa is horseback. There are no cars

The main form of transportation in Yelapa is horseback. There are no cars

This mule carries the supplies for either a resort or a rich gringo's house

This mule carries the supplies for either a resort or a rich gringo’s house

Lots of guest houses and private gringo homes around this point

Lots of guest houses and private gringo homes around this point

Aldabra on a mooring in Yelapa

Aldabra on a mooring in Yelapa

A view toward Yelapa village and pier

A view toward Yelapa village and pier

Looking up the river that flows into Yelapa

Looking up the river that flows into Yelapa

Walking along the river in Yelapa

Walking along the river in Yelapa

We spent two days in Yelapa, which is south across Banderas Bay from La Cruz. There are no cars. Narrow cobblestone roads are used for walking, horseback and some used of small quads. There are lots of guest houses and various retreats. Also private palapas owned by gringos. Walking around the area, especially up the river and back is very picturesque. The beach is very touristy. People come in on boats for the day. But for those who stay for a few days, it looks like there is a night life with good food and music. The anchorage was really rolly. We were tied up to a mooring buoy at the bow and another one at the stern. But the wind direction shifts at night so the wind is pushing you one way and the swell pushing you another. It didn’t appear that there was a good place to land a dinghy so we used water taxis. But they are scarce after dark so staying on shore for the evening wasn’t an option unless one were to make some sort of prior arrangement. We returned from Yelapa to La Cruz on Thursday morning, December 8, in time for Ted to catch a flight back home.

Places

La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

La Cruz streets are quiet during the day

La Cruz streets are quiet during the day

We’re in a marina in the charming town of La Cruz de Huanacaxtle in Banderas Bay on Mexico’s Pacific Coast. Just like everywhere we’ve been since sailing over to the Pacific Coast from Baja, the cruisers are very welcoming, friendly and helpful.

We’ve met sailors who have sailed thousands of ocean miles as well as sailors who just like to live and sail in Mexico. It was especially fun to meet Jack on Fleetwood, who has until February to finish his circumnavigation before he turns 80.

We’ve been in La Cruz for a week. We left Chacala on Sunday night and arrived here before dawn on Monday. Rather than enter a strange marina in the dark, we anchored, got some sleep and entered the marina a little after nine. That afternoon we took a bus into Puerto Vallarta to a marine supply store, where I bought a new dinghy and motor to replace those stolen in Matanchen Bay. The new dinghy and motor were delivered to me at the marina the following day.

I plan to use La Cruz and Banderas Bay as a home port for the next several weeks. It’s good place to get some work done on the boat. And it’s good launching off spot to take a few short trips to other parts of the bay.

While in La Cruz we’ve enjoyed the street food and restaurants and the local Sunday crafts/food market. There are also lots of gatherings and activities among the cruisers and we have participated a bit. I’m looking forward to the Banderas Bay Blast, which is 3 days of casual racing coming up soon. In the mean time, we will head over tomorrow to the village of Yelapa, across the bay. We’ll stay a couple of days and then head back to La Cruz. It has been raining here so it’s a good time to take a little trip now that the weather has improved.

Places

Heading South From Mazatlan

A view of Chacala from the boat

A view of Chacala from the boat

After leaving Mazatlan, we sailed overnight to Isla Isabel. We anchored for the day on the eastern side of the island, just off a beach with nesting blue-footed boobies and other sea birds. It was my first opportunity to snorkel since leaving San Diego. The water was clear with lots of reef fish. There were no other visiting boats.

That evening we sailed overnight to Matanchen Bay, south of San Blas. Matanchen is a large, shallow bay with very little activity, except for fisherman and their nets in the middle of the night. There was one other boat anchored in the bay when we arrived. After resting up, we took the dinghy up to San Blas. It was a long, wet ride but it was fun to check out the town and the marina. The next morning a couple  of us took the dinghy up a nearby river on our own personal meandering jungle tour. We saw crocodiles and a variety of birds. That afternoon, Don and Anne arrived in the bay on Redwood Coast II. To celebrate Thanksgiving we had dinner together at a palapa on the beach. We were the only customers.

That night I stupidly failed to lock the dinghy to the boat, and someone cut the line and took the dinghy with motor, anchor, wheels and fuel tank. Don and Anne and I cruised the bay the next morning to see if the dinghy had been abandoned, but we saw no sign. We then pulled up the anchor and went into San Blas to make a report with the port captain and the police. After spending the night in the San Blas marina, we headed to Chacala and spent a couple of nights enjoying this small but vibrant beach town, popular with Mexican families. It was fun to sit under a thatched roof with dozens of families enjoying their beach day. Don and Anne were there as well and loaned us their spare dinghy.

Passages, Places, Places

Mazatlan

We’re in Mazatlan right now at the El Cid marina. We arrived on Thursday, November 17 after crossing over to the Mexican mainland from San Jose del Cabo. The crew consisted of Dave and Ted and me. Dave has now left and we have been joined by Dax. We’ve got fuel, water, provisions and a working chart of Mexico, so we are ready to take off tomorrow. We’ll do one overnight sail and then stop at Isla Isabela, then head to San Blas and meander down the coast to Banderas Bay.

Baja Haha

The Baja HaHa

Starting parade for the 2016 Baja HaHa as it leaves San Diego

Starting parade for the 2016 Baja HaHa as it leaves San Diego

Nice sunrises and sunsets each day

Nice sunrises and sunsets each day

All the triangles are boats, as seen on AIS and radar

All the triangles are boats, as seen on AIS and radar

Sometimes standing watch is just a matter of sitting back and watching the screen

Sometimes standing watch is just a matter of sitting back and watching the screen

Loosening the steering on a layover day

Loosening the steering on a layover day

Night watches make you need to take a nap during the day

Night watches make you need to take a nap during the day

Nice to wake up in a calm anchorage after a couple of days of rough seas

Nice to wake up in a calm anchorage after a couple of days of rough seas

We turned a remote bay into a metropolis for a day or two

We turned a remote bay into a metropolis for a day or two

This really helped on downwind

This really helped on downwind

Sometimes we needed to get every bit of speed we could

Sometimes we needed to get every bit of speed we could

Thanks to Pat Crosthwaite for these pictures. I wish we had one of him in the collection. Just a few images of what the Baja HaHa was like. The first two days brought big seas and heavy air. The next leg had a variety of wind conditions. And the final leg had very light or no air. There was a little bit of everything on this trip, but what stands out more than anything is the teamwork on our boat and the supportive nature of the HaHa organizers and the entire fleet. Lots of things happened but people were quick to lend assistance. Quite a rewarding experience. And it continues as we get better acquainted with our fellow sailors in each port, even after the HaHa is over.

Baja Haha

We’re Off to Mexico!

Jelly Fish at the Baja HaHa Halloween Party

Jelly Fish at the Baja HaHa Halloween Party

Today, October 31, we depart with the Baja HaHa fleet, bound for Cabo San Lucas Mexico. This is photo is from the departure party yesterday. We are ready to go. I’ll post more updates as we go along.