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Nancy Morrison

Events, People, Places

Zihuatanejo

During Sailfest, there was a parade of boats from Zihuatanejo to Ixtapa

Aldabra arrived in Zihuatanejo on February 1, after a two-night, one-day passage from Ensenada Carrizal, near Manzanillo. We were very sad to leave good friends, but looking forward to learning more about Sailfest, which provides an opportunity for cruising sailboats to help raise money to build schools for Zihuatanejo students who might not otherwise have an opportunity to finish high school.

The cruising community in Zihuatanejo is very welcoming. Minutes after we anchored, Tim Melville from Northwest Passage motored over in his dinghy to invite us to participate in the local radio net and get involved with Sailfest. Tim, along with his wife Donna, and Ken and Nancy Hunting on Gitane were tireless organizers of this event, which was supposed to last a week but ended up starting early and extending throughout the month. And they weren’t the only ones who were instrumental in the success of the event, which ended up raising 1.6 million pesos this year. Ken and Margie on Peregrina, and Rick on Eyes of the World had huge roles. And then most of the cruising boats were the key to the whole thing, because they volunteered their time, their boats and their fuel to take paying customers out on sunset cruises, a one-day rally and a parade. Several boats hosted more than 5 cruises each. The guests loved their experiences and everyone was thrilled to be having fun for a worthy cause.

Aldabra stayed at anchor during Sailfest. After 3 months on the boat, my crew, Dax, was ready to spend some time on land. So I crewed on other boats who needed an extra pair of hands. And that was really fun for me. I sailed twice on Wainui with Mark Coleman and Stephanie York. And I sailed twice on Chez Nous with Al Garnier. I also got to sail as a guest on Catatude with Tom Wurfi and his wife Helen. And I joined as a guest on Kya, a 68-ft luxury powerboat with Michael and Katie, Stuart and Georgia.

At the Helm on Kya

Several of us made an extra donation to Sailfest in exchange for having a photo taken at the helm of this beautiful boat with its very gracious crew.

In addition to raising money by taking people out on the boats, Sailfest had a chili-cookoff, a silent auction, a rock and roll concert, and a zillion raffles. We also got to go on a tour of one of the schools, which was just built last summer, I think in eleven weeks. In addition to being part of such a worthy cause, I loved getting to know the other cruisers and getting to know the land-based community, some of whom are here year-round working on organizing this charity and the projects it funds. As a final wrap-up, we were also treated to an afternoon on the beach in a beautiful setting south of Zihuatanejo, which ended with the release of hundreds of little turtles into the sea.

Participants in the school tour, learning about how the school was built and who it serves

During our tour of one of the schools built by the funds from Sailfest, we were treated to a performance of traditional dances and a play

During the school tour the students performed traditional dances

These were some of several pairs of students performing traditional dances

These high school students put on a play about life and the drug wars

Students hanging out during the tour

These were some of the contestants for the chili cook-off

Some of the contestants in the chili cook-off

Local Participants in the Chili Cook-Off

Chili Cook-Off Texas Style

Love these two chili cook-off contestants

Nancy and Ken from Gitane and Donna and Tim from Northwest Passage were key drivers of Sailfest

This was the turtle I coaxed into the sea

Thanks to the volunteers, all the baby turtles made it into the ocean, but some of them really struggled. Hopefully things got easier once they made it through the surf.

So things are quieter now. Many of the boats that were here have taken off to either the south or the north. A few of us remain. I have new crew arriving in a few days so I will then look for a weather window to go north. Others will stay here for Guitarfest, which is in early March.

I shouldn’t close this post about Zihuatanejo, without talking about the town. Like most of the coastal enclaves I’ve visited in Mexico, there are many retired Americans and Canadians, along with some Europeans. So often the only culture one senses is an ex-pat culture, not a true Mexican culture. Zihuatanejo is a tourist economy and sometimes I’m overwhelmed by the sea of gringos. But sometimes, like this morning, it feels like a Mexican town. As I walked through the market, I was there with lots of Mexican families, out for Saturday morning shopping and strolls through town. I had this same sense last night at the basketball court, which is the heart of town on weekend evenings, with Mexican families of all types, with kids of all ages, out enjoying what is essentially the town square. No wonder people are charmed when they come to visit and often end up returning each year, or staying permanently. One other thing to mention about Zihuatanejo is that there is an endless supply of good food and good music. I look forward to returning next year for Sailfest, and I expect Aldabra to be one of the boats taking guests out on cruises.

 

 

People

Santa Cruz Reunion

Three boats from Santa Cruz California in Barra de Navidad Lagoon

A few days ago, there were four boats from Santa Cruz in the little lagoon in Barra de Navidad. We don’t really know the people on one of the boats. But the other three boats gathered for a reunion on Aldabra. On either side of me are Anne and Don from Redwood Coast II and on the right are Anna and John from Lucia. We had a great time reconnecting.

Places

Barra de Navidad

Looking out at the town of Barra de Navidad

Looking out over the marina to the lagoon in Barra. Aldabra is in the lagoon

After motoring out of Banderas Bay, we had a nice sail south to Chamela, where we anchored in front of Todd and Laura Russi’s “disco” beachfront home. I’ll write more about Chamela in March when I return to visit while Todd and Laura are actually there. We spent a couple of beautiful days anchored in Chamela Bay. I put my scuba gear on to work on the knot meter wheel that had barnacles all over it. And I changed a couple of zincs on the prop shaft. Other than that, it was a nice place to swim and read and be lazy. Trying to get ahead of some weather, we then went to Tenacatita. Another beautiful anchorage. We joined Mark and Stephanie of Wainui and Jeff and Jules of El Gato on a dinghy ride up the estuary. Saw one crocodile and many birds.

Landing the dinghy on the beach in Tenacatita wasn’t that easy for someone who has not yet had a lot of practice. (Although I did join the club of people who have flipped their dinghy in the surf.) So we moved on after a couple of days to Barra de Navidad. We have easy access to shore either by dinghy or water taxi. The one drawback is that the lagoon is not a swim area. Other than that, this is a great place to be. There are two towns to explore, Barra and Melaque. Lots of good places to eat. They each have rather large outdoor markets once a week. And there are resources to get various chores done.

Gear and Preparation, Places

Getting Ready to Leave Banderas Bay

When my family came to visit in Banderas Bay, they brought some gear that I needed. So I’ve been able to replace a broken feedpump for my watermaker. With the help of my brother-in-law Brian, I was able to replace the faucet for the galley sink that had quit on me. And I’m almost ready to install new wheels for my new dinghy. We were about to install them before discovering that I need some metal pieces fabricated so that the wheels will fit on the dinghy. So those parts will be ready in two days, and then we’ll head south from Banderas Bay toward Zihuatanejo.

We plan to stop in Chamela, even though my good friends, Todd and Laura Russi, who have a home there won’t be there. (They were able to stop by the boat for the night on their way back to California and I’m hoping to see them in Chamela in March.) We also plan to stop in Tenacatita and Barra de Navidad before arriving in Zihuatanejo in early February.

After a few weeks in Zihuatanejo, I’ll start heading back north, aiming to get to the Sea of Cortez to spend the months of April, May and June there.

Places

Sayulita

My family on the beach in Sayulita

The throngs of people enjoying the holidays in Sayulita are overwhelming

While my family was visiting, we took a day to visit a few beach communities at the north end of Banderas Bay. We started by taking the bus to Punta de Mita, where we had lunch at the El Coral restaurant. Then we backtracked on the bus to Bucerias to catch another bus to Sayulita. We were a bit overwhelmed by the throngs of people, but we were glad we had a chance to walk around and see the town. Then we took a taxi over to quiet San Pancho for a cocktail on the beach as the sun went down. No one was looking forward to the long bus ride back to Nuevo Vallarta, so we were lucky to talk a taxi driver into taking us back.

Places

Puerto Vallarta

View of Banderas Bay looking north from old Puerto Vallarta

Looking out over El Centro de Puerto Vallarta

My mother, my sister Ann, her husband Brian and their daughters Emily and Hannah came to visit me in Banderas Bay after Christmas. We took a couple of days to sail to Punta de Mita and La Cruz. After we returned to Paradise Village Marina, where the boat was staying, we took some land trips. One was to the old, charming section of Puerto Vallarta. We had a lovely lunch at El Campanario near the church and then walked across the river to visit my friend Denise Hitzman and her family. They were staying in a gorgeous apartment overlooking the bay and we had a brief but wonderful gathering of the two families.

Places

Arroyos Verdes

Cruisers having fun on Christmas Day at Arroyos Verdes

Musicians from 3 different bands jamming, mostly gypsy jazz

Lupe, owner of Arroyos Verdes being an amazing hostess

Aldabra crew member Dax enjoying the music

On Christmas Day many cruisers in Banderas Bay accepted the invitation of Lupe Dipp to spend the day at her resort near Bucerias. Arroyos Verdes has a variety of units to rent on grounds covered by beautiful vegetation and artwork. We sat around the pool, listened to gypsy jazz music, ate a delicious meal and generally celebrated.

Places

San Sebastian del Oeste

Tom Carr and his wife Annie are visiting from Santa Cruz, California and they have a rental car. So they generously agreed to drive to San Sebastian del Oeste with Don and Anne (who are here from Santa Cruz on their boat Redwood Coast II) and me. San Sebastian is about a two-hour drive into the mountains east of La Cruz. As soon as you leave the outskirts of Puerto Vallarta, you enter lush green countryside. San Sebastian is a traditional town. It was founded as a mining town during the early Spanish colonial period. On the day we visited, it was very quiet. One family was having a large birthday party for their three-year old daughter, which may have been why the streets were almost empty. We enjoyed walking around looking at the buildings and imagining how peaceful it would be to stay for a bit. We had a nice lunch in a hotel in the town center. We bought wonderful pastries from a panaderia and some tequila produced locally.

The town center in San Sebastian

Building facing the town center in San Sebastian

Children playing ball near the town center

Tom and Annie and Don and Anne

Scenes from around town

Scenes from around town

San Sebastian has a mining history. Assuming this statue is a tribute to miners

Scenes from around town

Scenes from around town

Scenes from around town

Enjoying a quiet traditional Mexican lunch

Our little group standing in the town center

Events

Banderas Bay Blast

Boats at the starting line of the Banderas Bay Blast. That’s Jane and Jerry on Aeolian in the foreground.

Sailing close hauled in 19 knots during the Banderas Bay Blast.

On December 11, 12 and 13 we participated in the Banderas Bay Blast. It’a a three-day regatta that raises money for school supplies for children in the area. During the first day, we raced on a triangular course near where we are staying in La Cruz. The crew was Dax, who has been crew since Mazatlan, and Alan and Jan from Kemo Sabe. The winds were light. We were three minutes late to the start. And we never made it to the second mark of the course. When the wind hit zero knots, we retired from the race. Only five boats finished that day but we had lots of fun back in the marina with the other racers.

The second day, we were joined by Jeff and Jules from El Gato, along with our Day One crew. The winds were light at first but picked up to 19 knots as we raced close-hauled from La Cruz to Punta de Mita. We picked the wrong strategy for getting to the finish line and finished last among the boats that actually kept sailing. But we had a fun day and the dinner that night was fun in Punta de Mita.

The next day, after watching little school children do some traditional dancing, we headed off to the finish in Nueva Vallarta. This was mostly a downwind leg and Dax and I did it ourselves, with the help of a spinnaker borrowed from Kemo Sabe. We actually left before our official start time and were near the finish line when the fast boats blasted past us to finish. It was fun to have a front-row seat for the action. That night we stayed in Paradise Village Marina and had dinner at the Vallarta Yacht Club as the last gathering of the regatta. The next day we returned to La Cruz to start getting some work done on the boat.  Thank you Jules for these pictures. More coming soon from Jan.