Patti and I left the Denarau Marina at 11:00 a.m. on Thursday, November 7. We were headed clockwise around Viti Levu Island, first north and then east. As we passed Saweni Bay, Ndebt came out of the bay and sailed in front of us. They had done this trip before and were familiar with the course through the reefs. (They were waiting for a weather window to sail to New Zealand, so this trip was a way to be on the move instead of sitting at anchor somewhere.) Shortly after they appeared, the wind came up at 17-20 knots as we left the protection of Viti Levu’s wind shadow. As we rounded the island toward the east, we had one-meter seas. We got to our first anchorage (a small inlet to the west of Vatubuli Island) as it was getting dark and were a bit too far behind them to follow in their tracks. Patti went to the bow and could see the reef on either side so she was able to guide me into the anchorage. It was still windy in the anchorage but the water was flat. We had eight feet of water under the keel. We had dinner and retired.
On Friday, we got up at 6:00 a.m. and left the anchorage at 8:00 a.m., following Ndebt out. As we continued east through the reefs, we mostly motored against winds in the high teens. At one point we put up the sails, but the wind angle didn’t hold and we had to take them down again. We arrived in our next anchorage at 2:00 p.m, in the northwest corner of Nananu-I-Thake. RaLa was there. After we anchored, we went with RaLa over to Ndept for tea. I was tired and turned in early.
On Saturday, I got up at 6:00 a.m. and ran the motor because the battery voltage was low. I ran the watermaker at the same time. I also put fifteen gallons of diesel into the fuel tank, from jerry cans. At 9:30, RaLa picked us up in their dinghy and we went to the beach at the island. Brad and Tari from Ndebt joined us and we walked on the island.
The three crews on a hike
Afterwards, we sat with Ian and Laura to discuss routes to Savusavu and which day to leave. I had planned to leave on Sunday but I agreed to wait until Wednesday. I rested on the boat that afternoon while Patti went kayaking.
Patti in the kayak
It was windy on Sunday and I stayed on the boat all day. Brad and Tari came over for sundowners. The next day, we all went back to the island for a longer walk. The caretaker allowed us to walk all the way through to a different beach. He gave us fruit and later took us back to our dinghies. The rest of the afternoon was very rainy. Tuesday was a windy day, and in looking at the weather, we decided to delay our departure until Thursday. So on Wednesday, we went to a nearby point jutting out on the island and swam and had a picnic. That evening, we all went to RaLa for sundowners and said farewell to Ndebt. They would return to the Denarau area as we proceeded northeast to Savusavu.
Aldabra at anchor
On Thursday, November 14, we pulled the anchor up at 6:00 a.m. after freeing the anchor from a coral head. We followed RaLa out through a winding course that took us south, then east and then north out of the reef system surrounding Viti Levu. We then crossed Vatu-I-Ra Channel which is open ocean. During the sail, we had a lot of wind, mostly on the beam so the sailing was boisterous but good. The seas were big but not too big. Eventually we sailed on a close reach until we arrived at the opening of the reef protecting Vanua Levu. Once inside the reef, we made our way to an anchorage just north of Nasonisoni Passage. It was windy but the water was flat.
Aldabra sailing across the channel
The next morning, on November 15, we got up early but our anchor was stuck around a coral head. We freed ourselves and were underway by 7:00 a.m., following RaLa out to the east through the Nasonisoni Passage. The tide was going out and the winds were in the high teens against us. A bad condition because it creates standing waves. The passage was long, and even after we got outside and into the bay, we were motoring up and over big waves for more than an hour. If the motor had quit, we would have been doomed. Once we finally got far enough into the Koro Sea, we could turn northeast a bit so the waves were at a slightly more favorable angle. We slogged our way across the sea and into Savusavu Bay, and then up Nakama Creek to the Nawi Island Marina. The guys escorted us into a slip, which was a couple down from our previous slip.
From Saturday, November 16 until Friday, November 22, I worked on decommissioning Aldabra for cyclone season. These are some of the things that needed to be done:
- Rinse, dry and fold the mainsail, cover it and then spiral-wrap line around it to keep it from getting blown in strong winds.
- Rinse and dry the jib, take it off the furler, and fold it and put it down below.
- Take the dinghy off the davits on the stern and stow it upside down on the foredeck, cover it and lash it down.
- Wash and rinse lines, sheets and jacklines. Dry them and stow them down below.
- Fill the diesel tank with remaining jerry cans.
- Give food away.
- Rinse the entire boat, including the anchor locker.
- Pickle the watermaker.
- Change the oil and oil filter on the diesel motor.
- Clean the interior of the boat, wiping all surfaces down with white vinegar.
- Lean cushions on their sides to allow airflow, stow all exterior gear down below.
- Take all bedding and clothing to be laundered.
- Defrost two refrigerators and one freezer.
- Clean the stove.
- Set up dehumidifier and a couple of computer fans that will run continuously.
- Rinse and dry kayaks, fold and store below.
- Remove blades from the wind generator.
- Close several thru-hulls.
- Turn off most switches on the electrical panel.
- Communicate with the caretakers who will look after the boat.
On Friday, November 22, Ian helped me get my luggage from Nawi Island to the taxi stand in Savusavu, where I caught a short ride to the airport. I flew to Nadi and from there flew to Los Angeles, where I rented a car to drive to San Diego. I arrived in time to celebrate Thanksgiving and later Christmas with my family.
Aldabra in the marina, all buttoned up
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